I was curious if any one had and tips or tricks. its an 89 c1500 silverado.
I own the same year, a 1500 series. Correct with the C-clamp but something you need to know is open the bleeder valve to compress the caliber. Forcing the fluid back through the master cyclinder will damage it. It's fairly easy to do.
You should also pull the rotors and have them miked
hi im trying to figure out which pads are better semi-metallic or ceramic pads. they will be going on a 1994 honda accord lx coupe. the car has 140,000 miles on it. i dont really drive it to much and i dont race at all. im a pretty slow driver. i dont go on highways that much mostly just streets. im thinking to just get semi-metallica pads . can you give me some of your opinions? thanks for your time
ALSO I LIVE IN GLENDALE,ARIZONA AND IT GETS VERY HOTT!! HERE OVER 100 DEGREES THANKS
No more than you drive, I would go for the cheaper ones. They will stop you just fine.
I just did my front Brake Pads for my 2001 Audi S4. I haven't looked at the rear pads yet — is there anything I need to know, or is it similar to the front ones?
You might need a special piston tool. Some cars have to have their rear calipur piston rotated as they are pressed back into the cylinder. Not rotating them can cause damage. Auto Zone sells a 12 piece disc brake calipur tool set that fits almost any brake system for about $30.