Brake Pads

You need to jack up the car and remove the wheel, make sure you use good jack stands to support the weight of the van. Next use a c-clamp from the outside pad to the back of the caliper and compress the caliper.Then remove the lower caliper bolt and swing the caliper upwards away from the rotor. replace the pads and reinsert the caliper and bolt. Make sure before moving the car you pump the brake pedal until firm. Then you need to Burnish the new braking surface after the Brake Pads have been replaced.
Burnish the new braking surface by making 20 stops from 30 mph. Use medium to firm pressure on the brake pedal. Do not overheat the brakes.

Now that you’ve known the other car care basics, perhaps it’s time we take a look at the fluid essentials that are literally the life giving blood of your car.

1. Brake Fluid- Is a type of hydraulic fluid that is used in hydraulic brake applications of your car, motorcycles and trucks. This type of fluid is used to transfer force under pressure from its point of origin among hydraulic lines to the braking mechanism close to the wheels.

Most brake fluids today are composed of glycol-ether but several types with mineral oil and silicone composites are also out in the market. This type of fluid should meet stringent requirements set by organizations such as SAE and the US Department of Transportation (DOT) - hence you get ratings on labels such as SAE or DOT 3 and 4 compliance.

As a rule of thumb, brake fluid should always be replenished if the levels in its container decrease with every drive. Fluid level in the master cyclinder will drop as the linings, Brake Pads and shoes wear and the calipers extend further to compensate. Brake fluid level may also be low because of leaking, which can lead to loss of hydraulic pressure and the most dangerous- brake loss.

It is very important to constantly monitor your brake fluid levels to ensure safe driving and fill according to the set level. Flush and change your brake fluid every 1-2 years to further ensure reliability and take note to never mix brake fluids with different DOT ratings as this can result to poor fluid performance.

2. Power Steering – Is another type of hydraulic fluid that transmits the power steering system of cars, trucks and other modes of transportation.
This is the fluid that guards your power-steering pump and rack from wear and tear. It requires constant monitoring and refilling from time to time according to the required level in its cylinder.

A way to notice that your steering system is about to have a problem or that your power steering fluid is running low is when you turn the steering wheel and you hear whining noises. Have your car checked when this occurs to prevent serious damages to your power- steering system.

Note: There are products out in the market today that contain the combined properties of Power Steering and Automatic Transmission Fluids (ATF). Use any of these products to save and be protected more.

3. Battery Fluid- Is the electrolyte fluid found inside the cells of your battery. If you are using the regular type of battery and not the maintenance free one, then you are required to refill your battery cells from time to time with electrolyte fluid.

Standard battery for cars is 12V and usually has 6 individual cells inside it. To refill, simply remove the vent caps that can either be found on top or on the sides of the battery. Check and fill the electrolyte fluid inside.

Note: There are some brands of maintenance free batteries out in the market today that can run on dual power- meaning they also have vent caps for electrolyte fluids in case their power supply run out. Although this type of battery may not come cheap, it would be best for you to use it.

4. Radiator Coolant- Is a mixture of anti-freeze fluid and water designed to protect the radiator and cooling system all year round. Using one will protect your engine from overheating. Most coolant products out in the market today come with various additives that can further help you against rust and other forms of corrosion, lubricate or increase the cooling efficiency of your cooling system.

Simply pour out the contents of your coolant to the radiator reservoir. Add water to the set level and you’re done.

For maintenance, it is very important for you to drain and flush your coolant once a year (or depending on the product recommendations) and replace it with a new one.

Note: Never mix different types of coolant together as this can lead to damage or a reduction of your car’s cooling system. Before changing to another brand, be sure to drain and flush your cooling system of the old one.
See to it that the reservoirs of these fluids are in constant levels and refill when they’re not enough. Properly maintaining them will help ensure your safety and prolong the life of your car.

Buckle up and drive safely.

Jovir Amatong
<a href=”http://www.autoterminal.com”>jamatong@autoterminal.com</a>

Jovir
http://www.articlesbase.com/automotive-articles/knowing-the-blood-and-lifeline-of-your-cars-system-brake-power-steering-battery-and-radiator-coolant-fluids-679459.html

Swiss Stop brake pads are different than standard brake pads. Their complex compound requires slightly different servicing and installation to ensure top performance.

Normal black rubber pads require filing regularly to expose fresh and clean compound. We do not recommend regular filing of Swiss Stop brake pads because Swiss Stop brake pads do not collect aluminum. All that is required to clean the pads is a good wipe with a damp rag. If you feel like they are extremely dirty and a rag is not enough try using sand paper.

Many riders may also benefit from removing the toe-in that is often required with black rubber pads. If you previously had rubber pads installed at a bike shop, then you likely have toe-in. Swiss Stop pads operate very quietly. Toe-in only reduces braking performance by stressing the leading edge of the pad. Best performance is experienced when the braking force is evenly distributed along the entire length of the brake pad.

Swiss Stop’s yellow colored Brake Pads are designed specifically for carbon rims with light weight components. Predictable braking is just one of the many benefits of Swiss Stop brake pads. These pads are different than standard brake pads and have an optimum compound containing a variety of materials that produce outstanding braking performance with minimal effort with the brake lever.

Swiss Stop is proud to be the “unofficial” choice of many professional cyclists. Many Pro Riders have switched out their stock brake pads for Swiss Stop over the past several years. With state of the art materials and 70 years in the industry are the foundation of the Swiss Stop products.

If you have any questions about Swiss Stop brake pads or have a helpful tip, email us. We’d love to hear your feedback! We may even post it on our website and send you something!

Arthor Pens
http://www.articlesbase.com/equipment-articles/caring-for-swiss-stop-pads-705104.html

There is more involved than just replacing the Brake Pads. You will need to turn/replace the rotors and make sure everything is in good shape. If you need to ask how to do this job, then for your safety have the job done by a shop so it is done right. At least get someone who knows how to do the job right help you for the first time.

Lossen lug nuts.
Jack up front and place on stand.
Remove tires
Remove Caliper
remove Pads
Remove rotor
Have rotors turned
Install rotors
Use a large pair of channel locks or caliper spreader and spread caliper
install pads in caliper (I would use some anti squeal sauce)
Lube caliper bolts with silicon grease
Install caliper
install wheel
tighten lugs
Do the other side
Jack up vehicle
remove stands
Set on ground
torque lugs to 85LBS

I have a 1995 Cadillac Seville STS and need to change the Brake Pads. Does anyone know the steps to take or is there a walkthrough video you know of?

here ya go http://www.cartuningcentral.com/how-to-change-brake-pads-diy

but if you never did stuff like that before i recommend that you goto a few local shops and see if there rates are ok with ya.

recently replaced all for pads to these wagner pads and replaced front rotors only…
brakes seem to be squealing once i depress the brake pedal for a quick 5 seconds but stops as i come to a stop.
they dont seem to squeal in the rain.
no lube or shims came with these pads and not sure why the are squealing.
easy installation but cant figure out why there is noise. put about 1k miles on the new pads.
never had this problem before.

thnx for your help

if you did not clean the new rotors with breakclean before you installed them then there is still going to be a layer of anti-rust sealant on the rotors that make the brakes crystallize and then make the squealing sound. however those brakes come with an anti-squeal warranty, i’d take them back off and back to the store where you got them and get a new set. just tell them that they are squealing and the whole reason you opted for the higher price was to not have the squealing sound when you applied the brakes. then buy yourself a can of breakclean to go with it and it should solve your problem.

I have a 2007 ion and they are saying $199. I feel like that is a little pricey?
I have had people tell me that it shouldn’t cost me that much. If you look other places on line it says that it should cost that much for all 4

Sounds about right. Just the parts are half of that.

I am doing my brakes today- any suggestion on which are better? The Wagners ThermoQuiets were $58 and the parts store said they are great OEM pads- does anyone have experience with them VS. OEM? They are going on a 2001 Nissan Maxima. Also, what is the break in procedure for ceramic pads with new rotors in the front.

Smart choice to go for ceramic pads. They are actually quite gentle on rotors and have great stopping power. Just buy pads with a certified label from D3EA testing or BMC testing and then buy based on price.

There is no special break in procedure other than take it easy for the first few stops so that the pads fully seat themselves and conform to the rotor surface.

Hi all,
I am getting read to change my rear Brake Pads with brand new Wagner Thermo Quiet Pads that I got a few months ago. I changed the front pads a few years ago and had no issues with it, and in order to pass the state inspection the rear ones will have to be changed. So I was wondering if I needed anything special other then what you normally need to change the pads (pads, clamp, etc etc) because I remember about 5 years ago I needed something specific to Honda to change the rear brakes on my 99 accord. So, if someone could let me know if I need anything special that would be great!
@ Delmer How much is it and from where? Why didn’t I need it for the front

yes there is a Special tool needed the pistons have to be screwed back into the calipers .